The Klein Karoo has much to offer in the vein of nature and the accompanying peacefulness. While ensconced in the splendour and the Karoo charm, you will likely fall victim to the allure of its bustling wine experience. Undoubtedly the primary fortified wine destination in South Africa, the Klein Karoo draws tourists from afar. Once there, your palate will lead you to Karusa Vineyards, a wine estate in the small town of Schoemanshoek.
Karusa has 8 ha of vineyard planted in half-hectare plots as estate-grown single-vineyard identities to a variety of different cultivars. Spread out across a south-facing hillside with rocky soil, their vineyards are generously spaced for the berries to enjoy even light penetration, while minimizing prolonged sun damage.
In the Klein Karoo, sun damage and drought are common concerns for winemaker Jacques Conradie, especially if you find yourself on a farm named Karusa, which is the Khoi-San word for “land with little water”.
Jacques attended Elsenburg Agricultural College where he studied Cellar Technology. His first stint as winemaker was at Mooiuitsig Wines in Bonnievale, producing wines for the entry-level market, then he worked at Graham Beck Wines in Robertson for 5 years. Here he enjoyed the vast knowledge and experience of legendary winemakers and mentors like Pieter Ferreira, Charles Hopkins and Gary Baumgarten, and also fell in love with Methode Cap Classique. After Graham Beck, he moved to family-run Bon Cap Wines to learn more about an organic approach to grape growing and winemaking.
“It was during this time that Karusa Vineyards became a reality in my mind,” says Jacques. “After that, I helped at Boplaas Vineyards for 24 months, then settled in Oudtshoorn. Here we slowly built up the Karusa brand. Our current production varies depending on the vintage condition, but we average between 70 and 100 tons. This amounts to between 3,000 and 5,000 bottles per variety or blend, which are bottled on site.”
While Karusa’s Southern Slope Sauvignon Blanc is surprisingly fresh, aromatic, and well-rounded, I was more enthralled with the challenges they faced when trying to trademark their Karoo Classique label. Until recently, Méthode Cap Classique referred to South African sparklers made in the traditional French bottle-fermented method. After numerous certification and registration woes, Karusa can finally deliver their bottle-fermented Chardonnay and Pinot Noir under their Karoo Classique label.
This little family-owned startup had the humblest of beginnings, with the support of wife, Saretha, brother-in-law, Theo Landman, and father-in-law, Johann Landman. Over the years, Karusa has learned to make the most of the semi-arid climate and the unique terroir by diversifying their offering to visitors while minimizing their costs and their footprint on the environment.
“We are situated far outside of the Cape wine industry hubs. That means transport costs prevent us from sending waste products to refiners or bulk wine to potential clients. Every drop produced on our product list must find a home. And our pressed grapes, lees, and destemmed stems are also used in our orchards for composting. We do have a great recycler in town, so we can separate and send all bottles, cartons, and other waste to them.”
Karusa is not only an established fruit farm that offers guest accommodation, but they also double as a craft brewery. During a cellar tour, Jacques explained how they shift their operational focus when the wine season ends.
“We harvest grapes from mid-January to end March, then get our white and rosé wines ready for bottling by May. In June we clear the cellar floor and start brewing for the winter season. Our mobile brewery is primitive but practical. The ambient winter temperature is ideal for brewing because it helps with cooling and regulates refrigeration capacity. Our bottle-fermented beers are brewed during this time, then bottled to carbonate during Spring, which gives them a remarkably long shelf life.”
After the brewing season, Jacques and his team start getting their famous Karoo Classique bubbly and red wines ready for bottling, with the aim of wrapping up cellar work before the season starts. As thousands of tourists stream into the Klein Karoo and the greater Garden Route, the Karusa crew flicks a switch and turns the farm into a vibrant eatery for holiday goers and guests, complete with snack platters, burgers, and wine tastings.
This article first appeared in South Magazine
