From dust to rootstock, viniculture comprises much more than balancing flavour profiles and tones with body and texture. Winemaking is often described as an art form, but it is easy to overlook the fact that winemakers are essentially farmers at heart. There is no better example of this than Nico Fourie of Herold Wines in Oudtshoorn, South Africa.
Nestled along the northern slopes of Cradock Peak, one of the highest crests of the Outeniqua mountain range, Herold Wines overlooks the city of George from a dizzy height. The first vines were planted there in 1999, but the first wine was only produced in 2003. When the previous owner decided to sell in 2011, Nico bought the farm with the intention of farming sheep there.
He knew very little about wines at the time, but something called out to his love for agriculture. Nico was willing to try his hand at winemaking, so he invested in more than 4 hectares of vines. The result was a life-altering farming experience that would settle in his heart as a calling.
Toil and hardship dictated most of the early years, though. Because of the unique location, atrocious weather proved to be an ever-present reality, while electric fences offered little resistance against mischievous baboons, birds, and bushpigs.
The challenges never let up. When the Garden Route fires of 2018 crept along the Outeniqua mountains, it laid waste to farms, businesses, and homesteads situated between George and Oudtshoorn. Nico and his team knew there would be no way to stop the blaze.
“The fire marched right up to our fence, where it scorched out demarcation poles,” remembers Nico. “Then the wind just changed and took the fire with it. We were so fortunate.”
The pandemic-fuelled lockdown brought with it a different set of problems that affected the 2021 harvest. The estate was closed off for 25 weeks in total, which had a knock-on impact on pruning, harvesting, bottling, and, ultimately, sales. Not to mention the devastating battle with mildew that resulted in near-total crop failure.
However, Nico was awed by the support from the local community, who went to great lengths to contribute towards their labours once lockdown restrictions were lifted. This humbling experience has encouraged Nico to adopt a renewed mindset towards supporting local businesses.
Winemakers like Nico prove that the true joy of viniculture starts in the soil, continues with the grape on the vine, and matures in the barrel. With a plumb-flavoured pinot noir that takes the breath away, and a crisp sauvignon blanc that can rival challengers, Nico has drawn wine lovers from afar for unpretentious vertical tastings and cellar tours.
He is not only eager to share his experiences on the farm, but he also claims his successes with matched humility. “It’s such a privilege to plant a vine, tend to it until it bears fruit, pick the grapes, bottle it yourself, and then to drink it,” says Nico whenever a compliment is paid towards one of his wines.
Since 2011, Herold Wines has expanded to 8ha of vines, boasting sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, and riesling cultivars, among others. Over the years, Herold Wines has become a destination for wine enthusiasts. Around 98% of the wine produced and bottled on the farm is also sold from the farm. While the scenery makes it a wedding venue of note, there is also a delightful bistro serving visitors wanting a bite, and cottages providing accommodation for travellers.
This article first appeared in South Magazine
